The wind blew us down to Donegal town. Still festive looking, Christmas lights still up. After dinner at the Harbour (always nice food!) we walked it over to McCaffertys Bar, known for the craic and the music and biggest venue in town. That night it wasn’t big enough though, the queues stretched endless and it was freezing cold. Landed in the Reel Inn instead, handmade music all night, with a set including guitar, piano and spoons. What shall I say? The craic was ninety.
The Allingham Arts Festival is one of meanwhile five notable festivals in Ballyshannon in the course of the year. And because the poet William Allingham, beside Rory Gallagher Ballyshannons most famous son, was born 200 years ago this year, the organizers put together an impressive program with more than 60 events – with drama, film, literature, music and witty entertainment. It starts today, check it out!
The Macnas-parade in Galway is famous for being one of the most spectacular, artistic Halloween-events in the country. This year it was unusually short and very, very wet – the weather really did not play along. Nevertheless: Halloween in Ireland is far more than “trick or treat”.
Rugged, too cool, bad weather, no trees?
Sounds bad, but put together it makes for – pure beauty.
The last “chapter” is Donegal by the way.
This has nothing to do with Donegal or Ballyshannon, I know, but it is too beautiful not to mention: The second digitalisation of the iconic Book of Kells should have been national (and international) news. I is a gift to the public, payed for with public money, and it is something to be proud about.
The Book of Kells is a medieval Bible-manuskript dated to aprx. the year 800. It is a historic treasure: The illustrations and ornamentation of the Book of Kells surpass those of other Insular Gospel books in extravagance and complexity. The decoration combines traditional Christian iconography with the ornate swirling motifs typical of Insular, celtic art. Figures of humans, animals and mythical beasts, together with Celtic Knots and interlacing patterns in vibrant colours, enliven the manuscript’s pages. It’s iconography inspired graphics of “celtic type”, you find motives from the book in present day jewellery, paintings, clothes – whatever you can think of.
The book’s dimensions are only 330 by 250 mm, so pretty small really. In 1986 a first full-colour facsimile was produced, based on photos, and in 2006 Trinity College produced a first digital scan. That was exciting, but by scientific measures it was not enough. In September 2024 Trinity published a second scan – and that shows the book in all its beauty and bigger than live: pictures of 2379 x 3150 px are almost what you would call “8K” in the world of TVs. What that means? They are big enough to print them out as wallpapers, if you’d like to.
Or just have a peek at it here and now. You can zoom into the pictures with your mouse. If you want to see the book full-screen, use the link above.
So, the The Ballyshannon Folk Festival 2024 ran its course – in spite of atrocious weather. It made it a tent-event, with too little music on the streets: bad luck, but the people who found their way to the Marquee still had lots of fun.
The Ballyshannon-Festival is the oldest festival of it’s kind meanwhile. All the other ones have gone, Ballyshannon keeps up the Trad-spirit. Check out their website, they are already looking for gigs for 2025.
Singer: Paddy Casey
Video: Joyce T.
Copyright: pat
Thinking about getting a sheep for the lawn is a kind of running joke amongst men. Some apparently make that dream come true. In July we passed a garden in Ballyshannon, where two of those organic lawn mowers were at work. One model was pretty dated – or extremely hungry.
Copyright: pat
Copyright: pat
We now offer Autumn-, Winter- and Spring-Specials.
Day-prices are reduced between September and March, and there is a 20%-extra-rebate for weekly bookings. Long-term-stays can be negotiated: just contact us.
Check it out!
Port Arthur in evening light: no footsteps.
Many people who come to Ireland come to see the coastlines, castles and experience the craic in the pubs. For irish people holidays at the west coast are very much about the water. Especially Donegal sports some of the finest beaches in Europe. And yes, you can swim there, in spite of the temperatures.
Continental Europeans are often flabbergasted how Irish approach the water: you run into it, you dive in – and then you just don’t leave it again until you are blue. The alternative is the wet-suit.
Bundoran Beach on a not-so-sunny-day: our grandson (4) in his wet-suit
Everybody wears them, you often get them in supermarkets on special offer, you can buy them second hand at surf-shops – Neoprene made Ireland a 12-month-a-year swimming-nation. The Temperatures vary between 15 and 19 degrees in the summer and fall to 10 in winter-time, but with 5mm neopren on your body that is not much of a problem.
Rossnowlagh Beach: a young girl experiences her first waves. On that busy day aprox. 100 kids were in the water, many with their surf-schools. Cost of the courses: around 35 euros a day
Rossnowlagh is all about the surfing: You can walk a 100 meters and more into the surf which is mostly moderate – ideal for beginners
Rossnowlagh bay, seen from the cliffs: Irritating for foreigners it still is a “drive-on-beach” – until the tide comes in
Icecream-vans are part of the fun. And mobile chip-shops
Sheltered beaches and bays like Bunbeg or Rossnowlagh feel considerably warmer than the open Atlantic waters you get at Bundoran, but it is all the same: the water is crystal clear and fun, fun, fun.
So yes, even for us our holidays at the west coast are very much beach-holidays meanwhile. Many of them are pristine and almost unreal in their untouched beauty. Even a busy beach like Bundoran has a tidal zone teeming with life: plants in rock-pools with shrimps, crab, starfish – an open-air-aquarium for the kids to explore.
All photos in this article where taken within 1.5 week in July 2024. Temperatures varied between 13 and 22 degrees. The beaches we visited were Bundoran and Rossnowlagh, Cliffoney, Bun Beag and Port Arthur. All are completely different.
Evening-mood at Port Arthur in the very north of Donegal
Looks like Sardinia, doesn’t it?
Bundoran is a buzzing kids paradise, with its rock pools and the nearby playground and summer fairground. Tullan at the other end of town is a long-stretched beauty mostly frequented by walkers and surfers.
Cliffoney is hard to reach, but totally pristine: We got there for 8pm on a lovely day, and our footsteps were the only ones we could make out.
Kids paradise: Beach, fun-park, playground: Bundoran in the summer is a lively place – and has a very nostalgic flair to it at the same time
I f*** dare you: a young man makes his way into the waves at Bundoran at sunset
Same place, next day: there are no seasons in Ireland, only changing weather. We experienced days like that in October 2023 – Late summer and early autumn can be the nicest time of the year, if you are lucky. And early September is the month with the highest water temperatures.
Need a private beach? Go to Bun Beag
Bun Beag with all its beaches, the backdrop of Errigal mountain in the background, the famous Bad Eddie-wreck in the bay and all its secluded little beaches offers stunning natural beauty and privacy: If you don’t want neighbours, you pick a 500-meter-stretch of beach for yourself.
Port Arthur is similar, but different again: The little beaches are divided by mighty rounded rocks – the pictures look more like North-Sardina or Corsica than Ireland. A plenitude of islands in front of the coast calm the waters that are teeming with fish. The biggest ones you see around are Basking sharks, if you are lucky: the second biggest sharks in the world – and totally harmless.
Cliffoney-beach, famous Classiebawn-castle in the background: The castle was the Mountbattens holiday-home, members of the english royal family spent their holidays here. The beach was almost private for them
Where we walked: At the end of a long, beautiful summer day the only footsteps in the sand were ours. Irelands beaches might be colder than the ones in the Mediterranean, but they offer you something you will not find in warmer parts: the luxury of solitude in places of breathtaking beauty
When is the best time to travel to Ireland?
That is a question we are asked extremely often, and it is a hard one to answer. It depends very much on what you are used to and what you expect.
Here is the data the Climate-Change-Program of the World Bank collected about Ireland:
Climate-data Ireland, average 1991-2020. Copyright: World Bank
But that is only the statistical average data. We experienced years in the last decade with villages snowed in for days in winter time, and with beach days at 26 Celsius and blazing sunshine. We had a lovely October 2023 (dry, warm, pleasant), while July was awful (cold and wet). You never know: even short-term weather-forecasts in Ireland are known to be taken with a pinch of salt.
Here are some basic truths:
So what does all of this mean? Everything and nothing: you might come in April and go home sunburned. Or you might come in July and not see a single day above 12 degrees Celsius. It is a lottery, and nobody knows what will happen. But what most visitors will agree to: whatever the weather was like, they had a great time in Ireland.
